During the struggle against South African apartheid, journalist Alistair Sparks used to visit the United States to "have my batteries recharged," inspired by "the idealism of the Kennedy years, the civil rights campaign and all that followed." Now, he writes, the roles have reversed: "My own country has emerged, albeit still with many faults, as a beacon of racial reconciliation and co-existence that gives me at least some sense of personal fulfillment in my evening years, while my old moral lodestar, the U.S., has slipped into an abyss of moral degeneracy, of political lies and casuistry, of